Monday November 9, 2009, 40 km (25 miles) - Total so far: 712 km (443 miles)
Today I want to reach Cradle Mountain. To get there I have to cross the Forth River at Cethana Gorge, an intimidating descent and climb which I'm quite concerned about. Then there's a hilly route across the alpine plateau to Cradle.
It's going to be a hot sunny day today - not what I need for the exposed climb out of the gorge.
Last night I stayed at the Wild Gowrie Park Holiday Village. It's the former construction village for the hydro projects just down the road. The park has new owners who have put a lot into improving the place. The park's restaurant was not yet officially open, but I was able to share a meal with the family, and was taken care of very well.
Oh, a funny thing happened yesterday that I meant to tell you about; I was cycling along this almost deserted road, about 5 kilometres out, when I saw a large commotion of cars and people ahead of me. As I approached I noticed two men standing on the road; one had a chequered flag in his hand and the other a microphone, and I heard him say 'and here comes the winner'. Of course I could not resist, and zipping up my jersey, I did my best impression of a TDF stage victor. Then I heard the photographer cursing me - 'Get out of the way!'. Looking back over my shoulder I saw a runner crossing the line right behind me. It turned out I had arrived at the finish of the annual Triple Top Mountain Run, a 20 kilometre endurance event crossing Mt Claude, Mt Van Dyke, and Mt Roland.
I had my usual breakfast of oats and tea, but there was nowhere I could get more food until the other side of the gorge. I set off in quite cool air and soon reach the top of the descent. It was long and steep and I modulated the brakes all the way down.
After pausing briefly for a few photos, I began the ascent. At first it was not too difficult, there was some shade and the grade eased enough in places to allow me some recovery. The last three or four kilometers however, were brutal, the grade hovered unrelentingly around 10%, and there was no shelter from the hot morning sun. I stopped frequently, whenever a patch of shade was available, and drank copious amounts of water, trying to regulate my body temperature. Then, just when I thought I would have to get off and walk, I popped over a crest and right before me was a cafe at the top of the climb.
It was about mid-morning, so I stopped for brunch; a burger and chips, two cappuccinos, and a mountain muffin to take with me, then replenishing my water bottles I set out to finish the job.
There was still plenty of climbing to do, but before long I emerged into the alpine heathland. The sun was by now at it's highest and there was very little shade to be found. All I could do was to plod along slowly to make the kilometres pass. And eventually they did pass, but not before a brisk headwind set in to make it even more difficult.
Arriving at Cradle Mountain, I went straight to the transit park cafe and downed first one, then another isotonic sports drink, and only after half an hour had I revived enough to go find my accommodation.
I'm booked in to the bunkhouse at the Discovery Caravan Park. If you are coming to Cradle, bookings are essential, it's a mistake to turn up and expect something to be available.
By mid afternoon I was settled in my room, showered, and relaxing. Shortly after I met Adam, a cyclist travelling one day ahead of me, whom I'd heard about at Gowrie Park. He's a youngster from Sheffield in the UK, and has been working on cattle and sheep stations in the Northern Territory and Queensland. He's riding a hybrid bike and equipment he hired in Launceston, and is grossly overloaded.
Later we had dinner and a few pints at the tavern, with a roommate, another Englishman, and had rather a pleasant evening.
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| 90 metre mural at Gowrie Park depicts the construction of the dams, and their recreational uses... |
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| The rocky sides of the gorge tower over the Cethana Dam... |
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| The Post Office Tree, used by early settlers... |
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