Thursday November 5, 2009, 110 km (68 miles) - Total so far: 553 km (344 miles)
Today's destination is Launceston. I should have been there two days ago, but extreme weather events and ferrymen on holiday are beyond my control.
A fine, cool, sunny day is expected, with north-westerly winds. If yesterday's winds are anything to go by, they'll be light in the morning and become a strong sea breeze by early afternoon.
I planned to start early as the first 55 kilometres of the route is due west, and I wanted to clear that section before the wind freshened. But at 5 am it was too cold to get out of bed, so I took another hour to get moving. After oats and tea for brekky, I packed and left looking for a second breakfast and food for the day.
Bridport, I have to say had been disappointing - the town had not yet awakened from its winter slumber. There were roadworks in the main street, and many traders had not bothered to open. The bakery didn't do cooked breakfasts, but made me some toasted sangas (sandwiches) and a cappuccino, and provided a salami salad roll and cake for later.
I set off towards George Town near the mouth of the Tamar. The route could be described as 'long' rolling, with long slow climbs and equally long and easy descents. At the turn-off to Pipers Brook I stopped to eat the cake the bakery lady had given me - it was a little apple pie with lots of icing, just what I needed.
In another hour I arrived at Pipers River, just a road side cafe and fuel stop, the one and only store on the route. Here I bought a hamburger, a Powerade and topped up my water bottles...
Leaving Pipers River there was a long section of dead road which reminded me of the previous days ride to Scottsdale.
Eventually I cleared this but then discovered I had a stiff climb over the hills flanking the Tamar. Reaching the East Tamar Highway I stopped and ate my salad roll, then set off, with the wind behind me at last, heading south for the 14 kilometres to the turn-off for the crossing to the west bank.
Did I mention the trucks? I'd had trucks passing me in both directions all morning, and now there seemed to be even more. The logging trucks really have me confused - I've had fully-loaded trucks pass me going in both directions. It make no sense to me.
Edit: I discovered later that the trucks were hauling logs to Bell Bay for wood-chipping one way, and to Scottsdale for saw-milling the other.
To my relief I reached the turn-off to the west bank of the Tamar, but it was was short-lived. The road soon narrowed and the shoulder disappeared, and with logging trucks passing close by it was probably the most intimidating stretch of road I've travelled so far. I had to get off the road hastily several times to let the trucks pass.
Finally I reached the Batman Bridge and crossed - even the bridge trembled under the assault of the trucks. On the opposite bank I took the scenic route through vineyards, orchards and fine riverfront houses. Peace from the traffic at last. In places the road was only metres from the water's edge. These were the Tamar views I had come looking for.
After a long hard climb the route rejoined the West Tamar Highway, rising high about the river with fine views to the north and south, views that I was able to admire all the way to Launceston.
I've booked in to Launceston Backpackers, and it is truly a fine establishment - I've stayed in worse hotels. Unfortunately my visit now coincides with the national Harley Owners Group (HOG) rally and all the reasonably priced accommodation in Launceston is booked out. I had planned a lay day here, but if I have to move to another (expensive) hotel, I might as well keep going to my next destination.
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| Keep those freeloaders away from my morning tea... |
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| This little fellow is trying to disappear into the ground. He's an Echidna (Spiny Anteater), one of only two monotremes, egg-laying mammals. The other is the platypus. |
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| The Batman Bridge - not at all gothic... |
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| No, no, it's Deviot, not deviate... |
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| Tamar views - the mountain in the centre is Ben Lomond, site of Tasmania's main ski field... |
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