October 2009
Let me start this journal with apologies to Nicholas Shakespeare for borrowing the title of his excellent book. For a quirky commentary on Tasmanian history and society, I can think of no better way to set the scene for the intending tourist than by reading this book, and hopefully I can gain some redemption by recommending it.
In Tasmania
by Nicholas Shakespeare
The Overlook Press
ISBN 1585677205
356 pages
Further reading:
A Tour of Old Tasmania
With Michael Tatlow, Charles Wooley and Peter Mercer
ISBN 9780980563733
Available from: Walk Guides Australia
with companion titles: A Walk in Old Hobart and A Walk in Old Launceston.
As the northern hemisphere summer draws to a close and the touring season winds down, here in the land of Oz spring has arrived with a vengeance. We experienced record high temperatures in the last weeks of winter, and have since been choked by a dust storm so massive it is clearly visible in satellite photos. The experts say an El Nino weather pattern is developing, and that means spring in Tasmania will be warm and dry after a drought-and-record breaking wet winter. It probably won't please the farmers, but it's just what I want for an early season tour...Well maybe not. Since I originally wrote this there have been several more episodes of severe dust storms. The winds that raise dust clouds in the north blow rain clouds, and even snow in the south, where I'm headed in just a week!
I've been planning this tour of Tasmania for the best part of a year, but as I've noted (not infrequently) in other journals, work commitments have introduced some doubt in the past few weeks, so I'm not keen to publish until I'm certain.
There are still some milestones I must achieve before I'm free to go. For the moment it's looking good, but I won't feel comfortable about this until I board my flight.
Maps and information: the where and how and when...
Bicycle Tasmania has a fantastic resource for anyone planning a Giro Tasmania. It has detailed information and pretty much covers everything the tourist needs to know.
More information can be found on the Discover Tasmania page, including this excellent self-guided cycle touring map.
Edit: The map has been recently updated, and much useful information added. I know it will come as a surprise, but Tasmania is a place where touring cyclists are welcomed.
Here's my proposed route. It deviates just a little from the Giro, and includes a side trip by ferry to Port Arthur on the Tasman Peninsula (as recommended by the (original) Cycle Tasmania map), and also a circuit south of Hobart along the Huon River and D'Entrecasteaux Channel.
And while I'm in Hobart I'll try to motivate myself for the challenging climb to the summit of Mt Wellington, about 20 kms of climbing from the city centre.
Edit: I didn't get to either of these side trips, or tackle Mt Wellington. Perhaps leaving them to the end of the tour was a mistake. But after suffering the discomfort of a severe saddle sore for most of the trip, I really just wanted to stop riding.
I have a full month to complete the approximately 1500 km trip, so it will be a leisurely pace with plenty of time for R&R or to wander off on some byway.
View Larger Map
More information can be found on the Discover Tasmania page, including this excellent self-guided cycle touring map.
Edit: The map has been recently updated, and much useful information added. I know it will come as a surprise, but Tasmania is a place where touring cyclists are welcomed.
Here's my proposed route. It deviates just a little from the Giro, and includes a side trip by ferry to Port Arthur on the Tasman Peninsula (as recommended by the (original) Cycle Tasmania map), and also a circuit south of Hobart along the Huon River and D'Entrecasteaux Channel.
And while I'm in Hobart I'll try to motivate myself for the challenging climb to the summit of Mt Wellington, about 20 kms of climbing from the city centre.
Edit: I didn't get to either of these side trips, or tackle Mt Wellington. Perhaps leaving them to the end of the tour was a mistake. But after suffering the discomfort of a severe saddle sore for most of the trip, I really just wanted to stop riding.
I have a full month to complete the approximately 1500 km trip, so it will be a leisurely pace with plenty of time for R&R or to wander off on some byway.
View Larger Map
Weather: the weather with you...
Tasmania lies in the Roaring 40s', and endures wild and stormy weather blasted up from the Antarctic regions by regular cold fronts and low pressure systems.
The west coast bears the brunt of the weather, and is a wet and windy place. The aptly named Cape Grim, on the extreme north-western point of Tasmania, is reputed to have the cleanest air anywhere in the world and is the site of a baseline air pollution measurement station.
The east coast is in a rain shadow and is drier and warmer. At least most years it is. This winter has been one off the wettest on record, after several years of severe drought. The east coast towns were desperately short of water only a short time ago, now their water supplies have been replenished to overflowing.
The charts show climactic averages for the east and west coasts.
East Coast...
West Coast...
The west coast bears the brunt of the weather, and is a wet and windy place. The aptly named Cape Grim, on the extreme north-western point of Tasmania, is reputed to have the cleanest air anywhere in the world and is the site of a baseline air pollution measurement station.
The east coast is in a rain shadow and is drier and warmer. At least most years it is. This winter has been one off the wettest on record, after several years of severe drought. The east coast towns were desperately short of water only a short time ago, now their water supplies have been replenished to overflowing.
The charts show climactic averages for the east and west coasts.
East Coast...
The bike: ah yes, the bike...
Cranky Franky, the burly Surly Long Haul Trucker...
I started out with a standard LHT complete. This bike is very well spec'd off-the-rack and represents excellent value for money.
It does have some shortcomings though:
- the cantilever brakes are next to useless
- the bar end shifters are inconveniently located
- the OEM Continental Contact tires are rubbish.
The colour is called yuuuuk (actually it's called truckaccino - yuuuuk is how I feel looking at it).
AND - it is far heavier than (I think) it really needs to be.
So I've replaced the brakes with Tektro V-brakes and levers, relocated the shifters on top of the bars using Paul Thumbies, and ditched the Conti's for slightly narrower, slick rolling 700C x 32 Schwalbe Marathon Supremes. Can't do anything about the weight though (or can I, now where is my drill).
Oh, and of course, a Brooks B17 for the (my) bottom end...
And for the baggage - there's a Tubus Ergo rack for the front and a Tubus Cargo for the rear. And a full complement of Ortlieb Rollers, bar bag and a small rack pack.
Finally, SKS fenders will hopefully keep most of the mud off.
I started out with a standard LHT complete. This bike is very well spec'd off-the-rack and represents excellent value for money.
It does have some shortcomings though:
- the cantilever brakes are next to useless
- the bar end shifters are inconveniently located
- the OEM Continental Contact tires are rubbish.
The colour is called yuuuuk (actually it's called truckaccino - yuuuuk is how I feel looking at it).
AND - it is far heavier than (I think) it really needs to be.
So I've replaced the brakes with Tektro V-brakes and levers, relocated the shifters on top of the bars using Paul Thumbies, and ditched the Conti's for slightly narrower, slick rolling 700C x 32 Schwalbe Marathon Supremes. Can't do anything about the weight though (or can I, now where is my drill).
Oh, and of course, a Brooks B17 for the (my) bottom end...
And for the baggage - there's a Tubus Ergo rack for the front and a Tubus Cargo for the rear. And a full complement of Ortlieb Rollers, bar bag and a small rack pack.
Finally, SKS fenders will hopefully keep most of the mud off.
 |
| Welcome to my nightmare... |
The baggage: what to take - what to leave...
I could recount a lengthy anecdote about a man I met on a bush walk some
years ago. But I'll cut it short - he was heavily overloaded, and it
turned out he was a cycle tourist. He had a huge pack, and brought along
the gear he usually carried on his bike. I've long ago learned the hard
lessons about overloading, so when I decided to take up cycle touring, I
promised myself that I would not carry more on my bike than I would on
my back.
A single large bag like my bush walking rucksack packs far more efficiently than multiple smaller bags, so if it fits in here...
It will fit in here (but only just)...
A single large bag like my bush walking rucksack packs far more efficiently than multiple smaller bags, so if it fits in here...
 |
| Rucksack 70L + daypack attachment(not shown) 11L = 81L. |
 |
| Back Rollers 40L + Front Rollers 25L + Rack Pack 24L + Bar Bag 7L = 96L |
Final packing: it's only a little heavier than expected...
Last night I took Heather to the airport for her flight to Nepal. She
will be guiding a group of trekkers to Gokyo Lakes and Everest Base Camp
and will get back only a few days before me.
Most of the floor space in our apartment has been taken up with her packing, but now it's my turn and at last there is room to move. Everything is packed and weighed and it looks likely I'll be up for excess baggage, but I'm pleased that my load is going to be around 20 kg as I predicted.
Bike bag: 20 kg (the bag weighs 5kg)
Checked bag: 16 kg
Cabin bags: 7kg
I had planned to save a few bucks by catching a train to the airport, as the station is only a short distance from our apartment, but now I realise the baggage is too heavy and awkward to manage on my own, so I'll have to part with some cash for a taxi. My flight leaves Brisbane on Saturday at 8:30 am, so it won't have to be too early a start.
I'll probably rationalise my load a little once I arrive in Tasmania and get the feel of the weather, but current forecasts indicate overnight temps of around 8 C and daytime temps around 18 C, so I will need to carry warm clothing.
Now only one more working day to face, and I'll be on my way.
Most of the floor space in our apartment has been taken up with her packing, but now it's my turn and at last there is room to move. Everything is packed and weighed and it looks likely I'll be up for excess baggage, but I'm pleased that my load is going to be around 20 kg as I predicted.
Bike bag: 20 kg (the bag weighs 5kg)
Checked bag: 16 kg
Cabin bags: 7kg
 |
| My bags are packed, I'm ready to go... |
I had planned to save a few bucks by catching a train to the airport, as the station is only a short distance from our apartment, but now I realise the baggage is too heavy and awkward to manage on my own, so I'll have to part with some cash for a taxi. My flight leaves Brisbane on Saturday at 8:30 am, so it won't have to be too early a start.
I'll probably rationalise my load a little once I arrive in Tasmania and get the feel of the weather, but current forecasts indicate overnight temps of around 8 C and daytime temps around 18 C, so I will need to carry warm clothing.
Now only one more working day to face, and I'll be on my way.
I'm going down: to Hobart Town...
After an early start this morning to get to the airport, I'm now in
Hobart, It's only a 2.5 hour flight from Brisbane, so even thought
Tasmania is on daylight saving time, I arrived just after noon and was
checked in to my hotel by 1 pm.
The only hiccup was the 11 kg of excess baggage charges at $10 per kg (ouch). No doubt it will be the same on the way back, so I won't be buying many souvenirs. Unfortunately Virgin Blue has changed their sporting goods policy and it's no longer as liberal - on two previous trips with bikes there were no excess baggage charges.
Oh - and on arrival at Hobart the Airport Shuttle bus was nowhere to be seen. I waited for a while then approached a taxi driver to see if the bike bag could be loaded into the boot somehow. The driver was unusually obliging and with only a little effort we got it into the back seat.
The hotel is quite close to Salamanca Place, and today is market day, so after settling in to my room I wandered around the markets and had lunch from one of the stalls, followed by a capuccino at Cafe Retro.
Some on-and-off showery weather arrived with me, and will persist tomorrow, according to forecasts.
The rest of the afternoon was spent re-assembling my bike. It survived the journey only a few chafe marks, but it is now apparent that the Surly painters are very economical in applying the paint. I encountered some minor difficulties fitting the fenders (which I hadn't actually fitted before), but otherwise everything went together well and is all but finished. It just needs a few tweaks in the morning and then I can take it for a test ride.
For dinner I returned to Salamanca Place and then along Constitution Dock to a wonderful little waterfront restaurant called Fish Frenzy; fish 'n' chips and a greek salad, washed down with a Boags Premium lager...the perfect way to end the day.
The only hiccup was the 11 kg of excess baggage charges at $10 per kg (ouch). No doubt it will be the same on the way back, so I won't be buying many souvenirs. Unfortunately Virgin Blue has changed their sporting goods policy and it's no longer as liberal - on two previous trips with bikes there were no excess baggage charges.
Oh - and on arrival at Hobart the Airport Shuttle bus was nowhere to be seen. I waited for a while then approached a taxi driver to see if the bike bag could be loaded into the boot somehow. The driver was unusually obliging and with only a little effort we got it into the back seat.
The hotel is quite close to Salamanca Place, and today is market day, so after settling in to my room I wandered around the markets and had lunch from one of the stalls, followed by a capuccino at Cafe Retro.
 |
| The markets are a feature of any trip to Hobart... |
Some on-and-off showery weather arrived with me, and will persist tomorrow, according to forecasts.
The rest of the afternoon was spent re-assembling my bike. It survived the journey only a few chafe marks, but it is now apparent that the Surly painters are very economical in applying the paint. I encountered some minor difficulties fitting the fenders (which I hadn't actually fitted before), but otherwise everything went together well and is all but finished. It just needs a few tweaks in the morning and then I can take it for a test ride.
For dinner I returned to Salamanca Place and then along Constitution Dock to a wonderful little waterfront restaurant called Fish Frenzy; fish 'n' chips and a greek salad, washed down with a Boags Premium lager...the perfect way to end the day.
 |
| My room is spacious - there's plenty of room to spread out and assemble my bike... |
 |
| Beautiful St David's Park was Old Hobart Town's first burial ground. |
 |
| Many of the original settler's headstones are preserved in this wall... |
 |
| My serviced apartment is in a renovated former telephone exchange - note how tall the windows are... |
 |
| Nearby Battery Point has a quaint village feel... |
 |
| On my shakedown ride, just as I was passing this bakery there was a sudden shower, and I was forced to take shelter (and lunch) here... |
Lazy days: in Hobart...
As is wrote "the morning dawned cold and clear", a most welcome change
after the showers of the last two days. I finished the last of my
provisioning, and agonised over what to jettison from my load, before
taking a last wander around the waterfront. The cold start soon became a
warm bright sunny day, a trend that I hope continues.
Here are a few more Hobart scenes.
Here are a few more Hobart scenes.
 |
| The Lady Nelson is moored alongside my favourite seafood restaurant (Fish Frenzy) at the Elizabeth Street pier... |
 |
| Alfie enjoys a tete-a-tete with some rather stiffly formal locals... |
 |
| Quite a little scene happening here - Diego Bernacchi, Maria Island entrepreneur, was also an Antarctic explorer and photographer... |
 |
| The fishing fleet was a hive of maintenance activity - the season must be starting soon...Mt Wellington looms in the background. The 22 km ride to the summit is a challenge I'll postpone to the end of the tour... |
 |
| The basin on the right is Constitution Dock, finishing point for the Sydney to Hobart yacht race. Try the floating fish shops for a novel dining experience... |
 |
| The May Queen, a lovingly restored historic sailing vessel... |
Hobart to Triabunna: a road too far...
Tuesday October 27, 2009, 88 km (55 miles) - Total so far: 88 km (55 miles)
My goal for today was the little east coast fishing hamlet of Triabunna. Actually the Giro Tasmania page recommends a short first day shakedown ride to Richmond, in the Coal Valley wine region. This charming village is certainly worthy of an afternoon's exploration, and the advice would have been well heeded, but at only 30 km from Hobart, I was keen to continue, and had my mind set on reaching Triabunna.
The selected route included three significant climbs, so I expected it to be a hard day, but I reasoned that I would never be fresher than on the first day.
The forecast was for a fine sunny day following a cool night, and after the showery weather of the past few days I was happy to have fine weather to start.
After a couple of idle days in Hobart, some inertia had set in, and I was hesitant, even a little reluctant, to get started. Eventually I got organised and went down to Salamanca Place for a photo with Abel Tasman, the island's namesake, then headed out of Hobart using the excellent intercity bikeway. After only a short distance I encountered a school group cycling near the Tasman Bridge, and their teacher fell in with me for a pleasant chat and gave me directions to the turnoff for Bowen Bridge and the eastern shore of the Derwent at Elwick.
Shortly after crossing to the eastern shore, I came to the first challenge of the day - Grasstree Hill. This obstacle had loomed large in my mind but proved not particularly difficult, and choosing an easy gear on the granny ring I soon found a good rhythm and crested the hill much more easily than anticipated. Descending the other side of the hill was rapid and exhilarating, and soon after I arrived in Richmond and had lunch at the bakery.
Leaving Richmond I took a minor road, ambling through vineyards, orchards, and market gardens, then rising gradually towards the next challenge - Black Charlie's Opening. By the time I reached the start of the climb it was past midday, and by now the sun was blazing down. I had to take shelter briefly under a shady tree by the roadside to cool off.
Edit: As I rode through the orchards, a red car slowed and waited for me to crest a small rise before overtaking. Then as the car passed, I heard the driver wishing me good luck. Hours later as I passed through the little seaside settlement of Orford, I heard a loud cheer "He made it!", and looking to the source, saw the red car in the front yard of a house, where there was a family barbecue in progress.
Eventually I crested the climb, and fending off a particularly aggressive and persistent magpie, enjoyed a tailwind of sorts all the way to the base of Bust Me Gall Hill, where it suddenly reversed and blew in my face. Not far up the hill I started to cramp, so I dismounted and walked for a few hundred metres before deciding that riding was easier than walking, and remounting, eventually ground my way to the top.
The descent of Break Me Neck Hill, into the teeth of what was by now a strong and cold headwind, still saw speeds approaching 55 kph, with logging trucks and cars passing close by. By the time I reach Buckland I had well and truly bonked, and had to take a fairly lengthy break. I briefly considered stopping overnight, but the facilities were not very inviting and I struggled on to Triabunna, around 20 kms further on.
I arrived at the caravan park just after 6 pm, sunburned, chilled and exhausted. I was greeted with a 'chapeau' from a french tourist who was at the park office. Too tired to pitch my tent, I rented a caravan. The park manager thoughtfully suggested a couple of beers, and after a hot shower and a cold beer I heated and ate one of my freeze-dried meals and soon after was fast asleep.
 |
| With the navigator, Abel Tasman, upon my departure... |
 |
| Within sight of the CBD the first decision looms - Tasman Bridge, or in the distance, Grasstree Hill... |
 |
| Convict bridge at Richmond... |
 |
| Yes, I did... |
 |
| No, I didn't... |
Triabunna to Swansea: by the sea...
Wednesday October 28, 2009, 55 km (34 miles) - Total so far: 143 km (89 miles)
The forecast today was for clearing showers, but that was the Hobart forecast and I thought the east coast would probably remain fine.
Looking up through the caravan window this morning, the sky was cloudy and the trees were bending in the breeze. I felt stiff and sore from the previous days exertions, and briefly considered having an early lay day. But on checking the weather forecast I could see the that the wind was from the south west, which would be in my favour, so I packed up and after a bowl of oats and a cup of tea, then a second breakfast at the bakery, I set off about 9:30 am.
The route lay through a rolling landscape with no serious challenges, so with the aid of the wind I was soon rolling easily through grazing land at first, then forest, and later, stunning coastal scenery. As I rode, every stream I passed echoed with the chirp of frogs, and at other times my ears were filled with the alarmed bleating of baby lambs as I startled them by the roadside. The countryside was fresh and green - a wet winter has really rejuvenated the landscape.
I had bought a salad roll at the bakery to make sure I didn't have a repeat of the hunger flat from yesterday, and I stopped briefly to eat at Mayfield, a lovely seaside camping area, then continued on to Swansea, where I diverted to Kate's Berry Farm for coffee and scones.
At Swansea I discovered that the ferry service was not operating, so I called it a day at the Swansea Backpackers Lodge, at the Bark Mill on the northern outskirts of town. It's not busy here this early in the season, so I have a dorm to myself with room for my bike. Manager Sharon is a Trans-Australian cyclist herself, and welcomed me warmly. We spent a few happy hours chatting about computers and bikes and bits and routes and future plans, as cycle tourists are wont to do when they gather.
 |
| Triabunna, gateway to Maria Island... |
 |
| Choose your shoes... |
 |
| The architecture of old... |
 |
| And the new... |
 |
| Those freeloaders in steerage class should mind their P's and Q's... |
 |
| This convict bridge has a rather unusual architectural style... |
 |
| The question on everyone's mind - why?... |
 |
| Kate's Berry Farm - not to be missed... |
 |
| Kate's scones - the best... |
Swansea to Coles Bay: gateway to the beautiful Freycinet Peninsula...
Thursday October 29, 2009, 58 km (36 miles) - Total so far: 201 km (125 miles)
Today's forecast is for fine sunny weather with a maximum of 18 C. However the morning was cloudy and cool, clearing only after midday.
My decision not to rest at Triabunna yesterday paid off. The tailwind I had enjoyed turned around today, and I set out in a gentle headwind. Leaving Swansea I crossed a verdant valley, past vineyards, paddocks full of ewes with spring lambs, and a most uncommon sight, walnut orchards.
Soon I came to the only climb of the day, Cherry Tree Hill. It was easily crested, and on the descent, I stopped briefly at a lookout with fine views over Moulting Lagoon. The headwind was gathering strength on this side of the hill, but I knew it was not far to the Coles Bay turnoff, from where I expected the wind to assist on the run to Coles Bay.
When I reached the turnoff the wind was really picking up strength. I stopped at the information booth and ate the huge roast beef and salad roll I had bought from the Swansea Bakery, then with the wind at my back, cruised on to Coles Bay. By the time I arrived in the early afternoon, the wind was very blustery and in a few places where I had to turn towards it, it almost drove me backwards.
The weather forecast for the next several days is not good, so I've opted to check in to a van at the caravan park, rather than set up camp in what may be bad weather - the wind is deterrent enough. I'm having a lay day here, and will climb to the Wineglass Bay lookout tomorrow, so I passed the afternoon doing my laundry and trying to keep out of the wind.
Edit: This morning I inadvertently put Bushman's insect repellant instead of chamois creme on the pad of my cycling shorts. I immediately realised my error and removed most of it, but some had penetrated into the pad. When I dismounted at Cherry Tree Hill I immediately felt a powerful burning sensation, but there was little I could do and had to endure the discomfort for the rest of the day. This was to far-reaching repercussions however, as the irritation developed into a saddle sore that dogged the rest of my journey.
 |
| The Swan River and Moulting Lagoon. Away in the distance the cluster of houses is Swanwick, where I would have crossed if the ferry had been operating... |
 |
| What are those structures in Moulting Lagoon? |
 |
| Approaching Coles Bay, the Hazards loom... |
Lay day: in Coles Bay...
Friday October 30, 2009
A fine sunny day is forecast but rain is expected for the next few days.
After a long lay-in I finally dragged myself out of bed for a lingering breakfast of oats and tea. I stripped everything removable from my bike, then rode to the Freycinet Peninsula NP and the start of the walking trails.
Securing the bike near the entrance, I was surprised to see the car park was already filling.
The walk to the lookout is very popular, and a lot of work has been done to improve the trail. After about 30 sweaty minutes I reached the saddle and took the short side track to the lookout, which was already crowded with a noisy family group.
Finding a shady place off to one side I sat and absorbed the view. I could see all of Wineglass Bay, from entrance to pristine curving beach, and the across the isthmus to Hazards Beach. Behind, Mt Graham and Mt Freycinet stood guard, and off in the distance, a sandy beach on Schouten Island was visible.
The crowd finally thinned enough to get some good photos from the lookout platform, and I wandered around some enormous granite boulders in the saddle before returning to the park entrance. On the way back to town I called in at Freycinet Lodge for lunch at the bistro - the Lodge is a stunning resort complex of rustic but luxurious cabins with the main reception building perched right on the waters edge. Lunch was a huge bowl of mussels steamed in a white wine, tomato and chilli broth, with chunks of crusty bread - absolutely delicious!
I took a turn through the township for more photos along the shore, and picked some supplies for dinner, then made my way back to my accommodation to do some bike maintenance. A quick check for loose screws, some air in the tyres and some lube for the chain is all it took to be ready for another day on the road.
 |
| Freeloaders... |
 |
| Looking back over Coles Bay... |
 |
| The Hazards are composed of pink granite - this is the boulder-strewn summit of Mt Mayson... |
 |
| Wineglass Bay - this beach was voted one of the top ten in the world... |
 |
| The Hazards - the orange colouration on the rocks is a kind of lichen... |
 |
| No words necessary! |
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)